Peru and Bolivia in 11 Days, with Uyuni and Laguna Colorada

A driver with your name on a sign meets you outside customs and takes you to your hotel. Most flights from the US land late at night, so this day is for sleeping.

If you land in daylight, walk the Miraflores clifftop and eat ceviche for lunch, which is when Limeños eat it. Nothing else is scheduled.

Pickup after breakfast. First stop is the Miraflores clifftop, Parque del Amor and Larcomar, where paragliders launch over the Costa Verde on clear days.

Across town to the Historic Center (UNESCO, 1988): Plaza Mayor, the Cathedral and the San Francisco convent, with its catacombs of stacked bones under the church floor. Afternoon free for lunch in Barranco or Miraflores.

Transfer to Lima airport for a morning flight to Cusco, about 1 hour 20 minutes. You land at 11,150 ft (3,400 m). Walk slowly, drink water and coca tea, and eat a light lunch.

Qorikancha, the Inca sun temple with a Dominican convent built over its walls. Then the van climbs to Sacsayhuamán, whose zigzag walls use stones heavier than a loaded truck, and on to Q'enqo, Puka Pukara and Tambomachay. Back near the Plaza de Armas around 18:30.

Pickup between 06:20 and 06:50. Pack a small overnight bag for Aguas Calientes and leave the big suitcase at the Cusco hotel, because the train has a luggage limit.

Chinchero, at 12,340 ft (3,762 m), has a colonial church on Inca walls and a weaving cooperative that shows natural dyes. Moray is a set of circular terraces sunk into the ground. At Maras, thousands of salt ponds step down the hillside, white against red earth.

Lunch at a buffet restaurant in the valley, with trout, quinoa and Andean potatoes.

A guided visit to the Ollantaytambo terraces, then the PeruRail Expedition train to Aguas Calientes along the Urubamba river, about 1 hour 40 minutes. The air gets warm and damp as you drop into cloud forest.

Consettur bus up the switchbacks, about 30 minutes. Your entry time is printed on the ticket, under your passport name.

About 2 hours 30 minutes with a licensed guide on Circuit 2, the route with the classic upper view and the main temples. Circuits are one way with no re-entry, so use the restroom at the gate.

Lunch on your own in Aguas Calientes, then the PeruRail Vistadome back to Ollantaytambo, with roof windows and a snack. A van drives you up to Cusco, about 1 hour 45 minutes.

Dinner on your own in Cusco, then the tourist-class night bus to Puno, about 7 hours across the La Raya pass while you sleep. Keep a warm layer and your passport in your day bag.

The night bus reaches Puno around dawn. We meet you at the terminal and give you time for breakfast and a wash before the boat.

Transfer to the port and a boat across Puno bay to the Uros, islands built of layered totora reed that families renew every few weeks. A family shows how the islands are anchored and sells its own embroidery.

About two and a half more hours by boat to Taquile, whose textile art is on the UNESCO list. The main village sits at 12,960 ft (3,950 m), so walk up from the dock slowly. Lunch with the community, trout or quinoa soup.

Boat back to Puno in the late afternoon. The wind picks up on the lake after lunch, so a windproof layer matters more than a warm one.

Departure from Puno at 06:30 along the southern shore, past Chucuito, Juli and the adobe villages of the Aymara shore.

At the border you walk through two offices: the Peruvian exit stamp, then Bolivian immigration a few hundred yards on. Keep your passport, the hotel address in La Paz and your yellow fever card in one pocket.

On the Bolivian side the road follows the lake to the Tiquina strait, where passengers cross in small launches while the bus goes over on a wooden barge. You reach La Paz around 16:00 and drop down into the bowl of the city from El Alto.

City tour from 08:00. The Killi Killi viewpoint shows the whole bowl of La Paz with Illimani behind it. Then Plaza Murillo and the colonial streets.

The Valley of the Moon is a maze of clay spires carved by rain, 30 minutes south of the center. The paths are short and dusty.

A ride on the Mi Teleférico cable car over the city. The fare is Bs 3 for the first line and Bs 2 per transfer, paid by you.

Transfer to the terminal for the tourist-class night bus to Uyuni, with reclining seats and blankets. It gets cold after midnight, so keep a fleece and a hat in your day bag, not in the luggage hold.

The bus reaches Uyuni around 06:00. We meet you, give you breakfast and load the 4x4.

In Colchani the salt cooperative dries, grinds and bags salt by hand. Then out onto the Salar de Uyuni, about 4,086 square miles (10,582 square kilometers) of salt at 11,995 ft (3,656 m). The white is so bright that sunglasses are not optional.

Incahuasi is the rocky summit of an old volcano covered in giant cactus, in the middle of the salt. A short, steep path circles it. When the flat is flooded in the rainy season, drivers cannot reach the island and the route changes.

Night in San Juan. Lodges here are simple and cold after dark, and the stars are the reason to step outside.

Early departure in the 4x4 south across the altiplano, past small lagoons with flamingos and the smoking cone of Ollagüe on the Chilean border.

The Árbol de Piedra, a rock about 23 ft tall that the wind has worn into the shape of a tree, stands in the Siloli desert at about 15,010 ft (4,575 m). Lunch near the lagoons.

Laguna Colorada, at 14,035 ft (4,278 m), is red from algae and dotted with flamingos. Then the long drive north to Uyuni and the flight to La Paz.

Free time for the markets or a coffee with a view.

Transfer up to El Alto International Airport, which sits at 13,325 ft (4,061 m), for your flight home.